Spaying/neutering will prolong the life of your cat and help reduce the risk of reproductive cancer in your pet. Male cats are less likely to spray when neutered early (seven to nine months). Female cats should generally be spayed by the age of six months.
Tips for Cats
Keeping Your Cat Happy and Healthy
Cat Owner Responsibilities
Cats are a delightful addition to a home and family. Follow these pointers and you and your pet will enjoy a lifetime of love and companionship together.
The Municipal Animal Shelter receives thousands of stray cats every year, and a small percent are claimed by their owners.
Keeping a collar and tag on your cat and an up-to-date microchip will make sure they can return home quickly if they are ever lost.
The safest place for your cat is indoors, but they can enjoy the outdoors while supervised on a leash and harness or in the safety of a catio.
Have a Veterinarian Examine Your Cat Annually
Keep vaccinations up to date to ensure your cat is disease- and parasite-free.
Ensure your cat has quality food and water. A well-nourished and healthy cat will live a longer life with fewer trips to the veterinarian.
Inconsistent use of the litter box is a common problem cat owners often face, but one that can often be corrected. Contact your veterinarian for advice and guidance.
Owners should not ignore the importance of daily or weekly grooming. Grooming provides an opportunity to detect fleas or other problems that might otherwise go unnoticed.
The Outdoors Poses a Risk to Cats
An indoor cat’s average life expectancy is 10 to 15 years, while cats allowed outside can only expect 2 to 5 years. This is because the outdoors presents many risks to a cat’s health and safety, like:
- Vehicles: Traffic incidents are the leading cause of death for outdoor cats. Whether in the city or the country, a cat is not safe from vehicles if she is outdoors.
- Predators: Wildlife, dogs and other cats can cause serious injury and even death to a roaming domestic cat.
- Disease: Outdoor cats are almost three times more likely to be infected by a parasite than indoor cats. The risk of disease is considered so severe, researchers believe free-roaming cats should be considered a zoonotic threat.
- Toxins: Cats and what they consume cannot be monitored while they’re exploring outside unsupervised. Many plants such as lilies are extremely toxic to cats, and can result in death if ingested.
Tips for a Happy and Healthy Indoor Cat
Cats crave familiarity, structure and routine, which is exactly what an indoor life has to offer, with the added bonus of safety from all the dangers that await them outside! By ensuring your cat has the necessary home environment, proper diet, enrichment items, and interactive play, your cat can live a long and happy life indoors.
Transition Your Outdoor Cat Indoors
- Take it slow. Some cats may adjust easily, while some may seem very upset and yowl, scratch at exits, or try to run out the door. This is normal.
- Get your cat used to a litter box. If your cat has never used a litter box or a scratch post before, get them accustomed to using these items before bringing them inside by making a scratching post and litter box accessible outside.
- Make your cat's indoor time special. Bring your cat indoors during positive times, such as meals or treats. Once your cat is comfortable eating in your home, begin to engage in play sessions with a wand toy rather than placing your cat back outside as soon as they want to go out. Offer them a comfy bed for a nap after they have eaten and played.
- Work up to longer indoor time. If your cat is bolting for the door, try tossing treats or kibble in the opposite direction of the door.
- Never use punishment as a way to keep your cat indoors. Punishment (hitting, yelling etc.) will only cause your cat distress and will make them fearful of you. Punishment may push your cat outdoors.
Make Life Indoors Attractive to Your Cat
Whether your cat is already a strictly indoor cat or a newly transitioned one, you will want to ensure your home has all the items your cat requires to keep them feeling safe and mentally stimulated. This includes:
- A refuge room where your cat can go to feel safe if they're scared;
- Places to climb and perch, such as a cat tree or a window perch;
- An appropriate scratch post;
- Solo toys that can keep them entertained on their own, such as toy mice, ping pong balls and even paper bags;
- A litter box that is kept well cleaned; and,
- Interactive toys, such as cat wands, for playtime with your pet.
Always remember to check toys for safety and never leave your cat unsupervised to play with toys with string, feathers or other pieces they may chew off and swallow.
Getting the Most From Interactive Playtime
Interactive play time is an important part of an indoor cat’s life. Interactive play builds confidence, relieves stress and frustration, and allows for bonding time with kitty’s favourite person: you.
- Select an interactive toy that really appeals to your cat and stimulates their prey drive, such as a cat wand.
- Once you have found the perfect toy, move it in a manner that triggers your cat’s prey drive; depending on the toy, this may be moving through the air or on the ground, or alternating between high and low. Quiver the toy, have it peek out from behind couch — have as much fun with it as your cat is!
- Always allow kitty to pounce on the toy and catch it occasionally.
- When play time is almost over, begin to wind down your movements so your cat doesn’t stay in a state of high-arousal.
- Interactive play should be done with your cat two to three times daily.
Safe, Supervised Outdoor Time
There are ways to allow your cat to experience the outdoors in a safe, supervised way.
Leash-walking and outdoor enclosures are both great options to allow your cat to be safely outdoors, but remember — if allowing your cat outdoors for these brief periods of time ignites their desire to be outside all of the time and leads to dashing or door scratching behaviour, it is best to keep them inside and use more interactive play instead.
A catio, or a cat patio, is an outdoor enclosure made for cats which allows them to be outside in a safe space. These areas are typically built outside a door or a window that your cats like to frequent. A catio gives indoors cats an area outdoors where they can lay in the sun, get fresh air and exercise.
The Benefits of a Catio
Catios are a safe alternative to letting your feline friend roam freely and provide many benefits, including:
- Offering safe, outdoor enrichment for your cat;
- Keeping wildlife safe from your cat;
- Helping your cat avoid the many dangers of the outdoors like traffic, disease and conflicts with humans; and,
- Helping your cat have an even better quality of life.
How to Build a Catio
Catios do not have to be an expensive or overwhelming project. Catios can be built to meet your cat’s specific needs — they can be as simple as a window box with just enough room for your cat to enjoy the fresh air, a more elaborate space with tunnels and perches, or anything in between.
Types of Catios:
Your first step is deciding what type of catio works best for the space you have. There are two different types of catios — free-standing and attached. Attached enclosures are three-sided and connected to the side of the house where your cat can easily access the space through a window or door. Free-standing catios are typically built on the lawn or patio, you will have to carry or walk your cat on a leash and harness to access a free-standing catio.
Materials:
Materials vary, but catios are typically built using wood framing and wire. It is important that the wire is firmly attached to the frame to prevent your cat from slipping out.
Method:
If you enjoy a DIY project, there are many catio plans online that provide multiple layouts and suggested materials.
If you’d prefer a premade catio, there are many options you can purchase online which vary in price and style.
Be very patient and persistent and reward your pet lovingly. Yelling, hitting or rough treatment will only teach your cat to fear you and will accomplish nothing.
Begin training at six or seven months of age. Have the cat spayed or neutered first, as this enhances their concentration and decreases their desire to roam.
Purchase a light-weight H-shaped nylon harness that buckles at the neck and the stomach. It should also have a metal ring on the back portion for proper I.D. and to attach to a light-weight leash. Collars, figure eight harnesses with breastplates allow the cat to slip out too easily. To find the correct size, measure the cat’s neck and stomach snugly, but not tightly. Purchase an I.D. tag at the same time.
Place the harness with the I.D. tag and leash where the cat can sniff, paw and play with them.
After several days, gently, but firmly, put the harness on the cat and allow for two-finger widths at the neck and at the stomach – do not attach the leash yet. Leave the harness on for five minutes initially. Repeat this several times a day for one to two weeks.
Once the cat is comfortable with the harness, attach the I.D. tag and leash. Let the cat drag the leash around the house for several minutes at a time, for a few days. Be sure to supervise the cat to avoid them becoming tangled in furniture. When the cat has accepted this part, pick up the leash and hold on to it. The cat will realize they have restraints. Pull on the leash gently, offer food and say the word “come”. Be patient.
How to Train Your Cat
Cats, especially indoor cats, need exercise and play to stay happy and healthy. Not only is this fun for felines and owners alike, but with a little effort, you might even be able to train your cat to understand a few common commands. This will greatly reduce the chance of unwanted behaviours in your cat.
Playing with and training your cat from the beginning is a fun way to get to know your cat and sets the stage for a successful lifelong relationship.
From paper bags to crumpled balls of paper and empty toilet paper rolls, many small, lightweight household objects make fun toys for your cat. You should avoid plastic bags and anything stringy, sharp or pointy, which could harm your cat and lead to expensive surgery.
Your pet store will also feature a wide range of toys sure to please the most finicky feline, but make sure you check over all toys in advance to make sure they are safe for your cat. Some toys are also great interactive toys but should be used only with supervision.
Cats respond well to food as a reward, so select something your cat really likes for training, such as tuna, small pieces of chicken or storebought treats.
Schedule sessions before your cat’s meal times — a hungry cat is more likely to be interested in food rewards.
Use your cat’s name along with the command (for example, “Rudy, sit”), then provide a food reward and praise your cat when they perform the desired behaviour.
Teach your cat only one command at a time, and repeat the lesson daily until your cat responds reliably. Once your cat has learned one command, you can move on to another.
Remember that food rewards are still food, so reduce food portions accordingly during regular training sessions to prevent your cat from gaining excess weight.
- Purchase a lightweight (nylon or cotton) harness and leash (6 to 8 feet long). Do not use a collar, as cats can easily slip out of them.
- Place the harness on the floor and allow your cat to smell it for a few days.
- Pick up the harness and touch your cat with it. If the cat seems comfortable, slip it on and let the cat wear it around the house. Progress to 10 to 15 minutes a day for a week and provide food rewards and praise for wearing it.
- After a week, attach the leash to the harness and hide treats around the house so your cat can walk around trying to find them with the leash dangling. After a week, progress to holding the leash while your cat hunts for treats.
- Progress to walking on the leash outside, five minutes at first, and carry food rewards.
- Remember to be patient if your cat just wants to sit in their harness. Once they are comfortable, you can increase the time you spend outdoors and the activities you do together.
Sit (to get your cat to sit on command):
- Place your cat on a clean surface.
- Hold food reward over your cat’s head.
- Say your cat’s name and “sit.”
- Move the food back over your cat’s head — as your cat follows the food they will naturally sit down. If not, press down — very lightly — on their hind quarters.
- As soon as your cat sits, say name, “sit,” give food and repeat.
Come (to get your cat to come on command):
- When your cat comes to the feeding area, say name, “come,” and give some food.
- Do this in other locations around the house, saying name, “come,” and providing food when your cat comes.
- Continue until your cat comes regularly on command with or without the use of food.
Stay (to get your cat to stay, or freeze, on command):
- Place food on the floor about ten feet away from your cat.
- As your cat approaches put your hand out, say your cat’s name and “stay.”
- If your cat stops, reward with food.
- If your cat keeps coming, hold your hand out again saying name and “stay” again, rewarding with food and praise only if your cat stops.
- Repeat the process until your cat knows that “stay” means stop.
Grooming Training: Nail Trimming, Brushing, etc.
Place your cat on your lap and gently:
- Massage and note sensitive areas (often on the tummy).
- Press on the toe pads to extend the claws.
- Open the mouth and peek inside, including playing with gums.
Do this daily, and once your cat becomes comfortable letting you touch them all over, try introducing grooming tools such as brushes, nail clippers and tooth brushes, making sure you first let them sniff the items (for a day or so) before using the tools.
Like a dog, a cat should exercise daily to maintain a healthy weight and release pent up energy. Each day put aside at least 15 minutes to “play” with your cat — use pull toys, feather toys on a piece of string, laser pointers, ping pong balls, crumpled up foil, whatever your cat likes to play with. Experiment until you come to the best way of having fun together.
Training More Than One Cat at a Time
If you have more than one cat, start with the one that likes food the most. Separate this cat from the others at first (in the kitchen, bathroom or crate), then let the others join in to play “copy cat” and learn through watching.
How to Stop Unwanted Scratching
Scratching is normal cat behaviour. Cats scratch to:
- Remove the dead outer layer of their claws.
- Rub their scent onto things to mark their territory.
- Stretch their bodies and claws.
- Work off energy.
- Seek your attention when they want something.
Can I Stop My Cat From Scratching?
Scratching is normal behaviour for your cat; it becomes a problem only when the object being scratched is an item of value to you. The goal is to redirect the scratching to an acceptable object, such as a scratching post.
Don’t try to stop the cat from scratching — try to redirect it.
How Can I Train My Cat to Scratch Acceptable Objects?
Provide objects for scratching that are appealing and convenient for your cat. Observe the physical features of the objects your cat is scratching. Note their location, texture, shape and height.
Substitute a similar object for them to scratch (for example, rope-wrapped posts, corrugated cardboard, or even a log). Place an acceptable object (for example, scratching post) near an inappropriate object (for example, upholstered chair). Make sure the objects are stable and won’t fall over when your cat uses them. You can make these objects more attractive to your cat by spraying them with catnip periodically and hanging a toy from the post.
Cover the inappropriate object with something your cat won’t like, such as double-sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, sheets of sandpaper, or a plastic carpet runner with the pointy side up. Special products for training your cat are available at pet supply stores.
Don’t take your cat over to the scratching post and position their paws on the post to show her what she’s supposed to do. This will likely have the opposite effect and make them less likely to use the post.
Only remove the unappealing coverings from the inappropriate object when your cat is consistently using the appropriate objects. This will entice your cat to investigate the more appealing scratching post.
Where Can I Find a Scratching Post?
Most pet supply stores carry scratching posts in a range of styles and costs. Be sure that whatever you purchase is stable and won’t topple when used; a minimum of three feet tall is recommended.
You can also make your own scratching post. Make sure your design is stable.
Are Other Products Available to Help Stop Unwanted Scratching?
Many products are specifically designed to help stop inappropriate scratching, including sheets of adhesive material to stick to furniture and glue-on nail caps for your cat. Consult with your veterinarian, or conduct a search on the Internet, to find the most current products.
Can Trimming My Cat's Claws Help?
One reason cats scratch is to remove the dead outer layer of their claws. Regularly trimming your cat’s nails can help reduce scratching.
You should clip off the sharp tips of your cat’s claws on their front feet every two weeks or so. Help them get accustomed to having their paws handled and squeezed by gently petting their legs and paws while offering a treat until they tolerate this kind of touching and restraint.
Apply a small amount of pressure to their paw — with your thumb on top of the paw and your index finger underneath — until a claw is extended. You should be able to see the pink or “quick,” which is a small blood vessel. Don’t cut into this pink portion, as it will bleed and be painful for your cat. If you cut off just the sharp tip of the claw, or “hook,” it will dull the claw.
There are several types of claw trimmers designed especially for pets. These are better than your own nail clipper because they won’t crush the claw. Until you and your cat have become accustomed to the routine, one claw or one foot a day is enough of a challenge.
The Ottawa Humane Society is opposed to the declawing of cats.
Your cat’s claws are an integral part of their life. Although scratching is natural for your cat, it can become a problem when the object being scratched is an item of value to you.
It is almost impossible for owners to prevent their cats from scratching, and as a result, some owners might surrender their cat to an animal shelter or have them declawed.
Declawing is an elective procedure that can be performed on cats involving the removal of the claw. This procedure can be associated with post-operative discomfort and complications.
The OHS recommends that cat owners explore various options in eliminating destructive scratching behaviour, including routine nail trimming, the strategic placement of a properly designed and constructed scratching post, covering inappropriate objects with something that does not appeal to the cat (ie. double sided sticky tape, aluminum foil, plastic carpet runner with the pointed side up).
Why Won't My Cat Use a Litter Box?
House Soiling
House soiling is one of the most common behaviour problems in cats. It’s normal for cats to have surface and location preferences for elimination. But when these preferences include the laundry basket, your bed or your carpeting, you have cause for concern. However, there are a number of reasons cats break their litter training.
To get to the root of the problem, you may have to investigate.
Could There be a Medical Cause?
Health problems can cause litter box problems, and cats don’t usually act sick, even when they are. For this reason, it’s important to check with your veterinarian first. Typical medical causes include painful urination or bowel movements due to bladder infections, intestinal disorders and some forms of arthritis. Because of the discomfort associated with eliminating, your cat may avoid the litter box and seek other places for elimination, hoping to find a location where it does not hurt.
The only way a cat can communicate that there is a problem is by showing you — and that may translate into house soiling. Only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical exam — which may include a urinalysis — can rule out a medical problem.
Why Am I Finding Cat Urine on Walls and Doors?
Your cat may be spraying. Spraying is urine-marking behaviour that demonstrates ownership of their territory. It can occur because neighbourhood cats are outside or because of conflicts between cats in a multi-cat household.
Unfamiliar objects or people in the house can also cause the behaviour. Spraying has nothing to do with litter box habits.
When a cat sprays, they stand up, back up against a vertical surface and deposit urine at cat height against curtains, doors, furniture and other solid surfaces. The tail may quiver and they may alternately lift their hind feet while spraying. Male, female, spayed or neutered cats of any age may spray, although the behaviour is most common in unneutered males and females in heat.
Spraying problems can be drastically reduced or even completely resolved with:
- Spaying or neutering any unaltered cats in the household.
- Discouraging the presence of neighbourhood cats (try blocking off windows where your cat can see neighbourhood cats).
- Resolving conflicts between cats in the household (or with previous cats! If you’ve just moved into a space where cats once lived, your cat may be spraying in reaction to old urine markings left by the previous cat, which may require some extra cleaning).
- Identifying any territorial issues for your cat (cats have space requirements — especially with regard to sharing their house with other animals — so talk to your veterinarian about ensuring that your cat has enough space).
- Dealing with other sources of stress (for example, a new baby, new pet, moving or more subtle changes in your lifestyle). Giving your cat as much attention as possible during household changes is an excellent method to reduce stress-induced behaviours in your pet.
If it's Not Urine Marking, What's the Problem?
Your cat may have decided the litter box is an unpleasant place in which to eliminate if:
- The box is not kept clean enough
- They have experienced painful urination or defecation in the box due to a medical problem.
- They have been startled by a noise while using the box, or if the litter box is in a noisy place.
- They are are stressed or in pain.
- They have been surprised by a person or another pet while in the box.
- They associate the box with punishment.
- They do not have easy access to the litter box.
How Can I Get My Cat to Use the Litter Box?
- Keep the litter box extremely clean. Scoop at least once a day and change the litter completely every four to five days. If you use scoopable litter, you may not need to change the litter as frequently, although you will have to refill it every time you clean it.
- If you have changed the brand or type of litter, change back to the litter your cat used before.
- If your cat is used to being outdoors, try adding some soil to the box. Vary the depth of the litter.
- Add a new box in a different location, and use a different type of litter in the new box. Make sure that the litter box isn’t near an appliance (such as a furnace) that makes noise, or in an area of your home that your cat doesn’t frequent.
- If you have multiple cats, provide one litter box for each cat, plus one extra box in a different location.
- Clean soiled areas immediately, using appropriate products. Special enzyme products for removing stains and odours are available at pet supply stores.
What if I Catch My Cat in the Act?
If you catch your cat in the act of eliminating outside the litter box, do something to interrupt them, but be careful not to scare your cat. Immediately take your cat to the litter box and set them on the floor nearby. If your cat wanders over to the litter box, wait and praise your cat after they eliminate in the box. If your cat takes off in another direction, they may want privacy, so watch from afar until your cat goes back to the litter box and eliminates, then praise them.