Skip to main content Skip to footer

Tips for Dogs

What Are Challenging Behaviours?

Much behaviour that is considered challenging or difficult, like barking or chewing, is normal dog behaviour. It’s only when such behaviour becomes excessive, or directed toward objects we value, that it can rightly be called difficult.

Challenging dog behaviour includes things like:

  • Barking
  • Chewing
  • Digging
  • Jumping
  • House soiling
  • Stealing (food, objects)
  • Escaping

Reasons vary, but boredom, isolation and lack of exercise are frequent causes of unwanted behaviour in dogs. 

Dogs need exercise, both mental and physical, to stay healthy and happy. Other common reasons for difficult behaviours are fear or separation anxiety.

Excessive barking can be an annoyance for your neighbours as well as your family. Until the problem is resolved, keep your dog indoors when you’re out of the house, and let your neighbours know you’re working on a solution. Dogs bark for all kinds of reasons. Here are a few tips that could help:

  • Make sure that your dog is getting enough exercise;
  • Teach a “quiet” command by allowing one or two barks, then saying “quiet”.
  • While your dog is quiet, offer praise and a treat, a toy or other positive reward;
  • If your dog barks at strangers, such as the mail carrier, desensitize your dog by having someone walk by the yard. Offer treats and praise as quiet behaviour continues and the person comes closer;
  • Don’t confuse your dog by encouraging barking at strangers;
  • Have your dog spayed/neutered to reduce territorial barking; and,
  • If you suspect your dog is barking due to separation anxiety, fear or low confidence, consult a dog trainer or behaviourist.

Puppies commonly chew up to the age of 18 months. Grown dogs chew as a way to explore their world. Rather than preventing chewing, try to redirect it toward safe, appropriate objects. Keep dangerous objects such as pins, string, tinfoil, cellophane and rubber bands out of your pet’s reach.

To limit destructive chewing:

  • Make sure that your dog is getting enough exercise and play. If you don't have time to exercise your dog, their energy may be destructive;
  • Never give a dog old socks or shoes to chew on;
  • Give your puppy a maximum of three safe objects to chew on;
  • Until your dog understands the rules, keep tempting items out of their reach. When they are unsupervised, confine them to a safe, dog-proof place with water and toys, such as a crate;
  • If you catch your dog chewing, offer an acceptable toy. When your dog takes the toy, offer praise and a treat; and,
  • If you suspect your dog is chewing due to separation anxiety or fear, consult with a reputable animal behaviour specialist or a trainer.

It depends on what behaviour your dog is showing. However, no matter what sort of difficult behaviour your dog is showing:

  • Ensure that your dog is getting adequate exercise;
  • Reward positive behaviour with praise and treats; 
  • Don’t expect to totally eliminate the behaviour. Try to control, manage or redirect it;
  • Crate train your dog to create a safe environment for them. Crate training ensures that your dog and your belongings are safe when you’re absent; and,
  • Never punish a dog, it may make the problem worse.

Make sure your dog gets adequate exercise and is spayed/neutered. If your dog is escaping out of fear or separation anxiety, address the underlying problem. In the meantime, take these precautions to keep your dog from escaping:

  • Add an extension to your fence at an inward slant of about 45°. Make sure there is nothing near the fence that your dog could use to jump over the fence.
  • Block the area around the base of the fence with large rocks or other fencing at ground level. Bury chicken wire at the base, keeping the sharp edges rolled inward to protect your dog from scratches.
  • If you decide to tether your dog, be sure to use a leash on an overhead cable runner to prevent your dog from getting tangled or accidental strangling.

  • Play with your dog every day. Try playing fetch in the backyard!
  • Visit dog-friendly parks to allow your dog to interact and play with other dogs.
  • Spend at least a half-hour each day walking your dog. Allow time for sniffing and exploring.
  • Increase your dog’s mental stimulation every day by teaching commands and tricks.
  • Take a dog training course. It will increase bonding and stimulate your dog.
  • If your dog is left alone a lot, have a trusted friend, relative or hired dogwalker walk and play with them. 
  • Provide your dog with plenty of appropriate toys. When you introduce a new toy, watch carefully to make sure your dog doesn’t tear it up and eat the pieces. Try challenging toys, such as nylon bones and Kong toys filled with treats, to keep your dog occupied.
  • Rotate the toys periodically to keep things interesting for your dog.

Sometimes dogs who are scared might show unwanted behaviour like excessive barking or inappropriate chewing.

If you think your dog is acting out due to fear:

  • Find out where your dog goes when they are anxious. Allow constant access to that space, or create a similar space your dog can retreat to when they are frightened. Try to limit exposure to the “fear trigger.”
  • If the fear is excessive, talk to your veterinarian. Your dog may benefit from anti-anxiety medication or the help of a professional trainer.

Dogs with separation anxiety have difficulty being away from their people. They might show unwanted behaviour — such as chewing, scratching or howling — within 20 to 45 minutes after being left alone.

If your dog has separation anxiety:

  • Keep your arrivals and departures low key;
  • Leave your dog a reassuring object, such as an old piece of clothing with your scent; 
  • Develop a safety cue that will let your dog know you’ll be coming back. Common cues are playing the radio or television, or providing access to a special toy while you’re away;
  • Often another dog will help your anxious dog feel more secure; however, if you’re contemplating another dog, talk to a behaviour specialist, dog trainer or the Ottawa Humane Society to ensure you find an appropriate match; and,
  • If your dog is extremely anxious, consult your veterinarian. Dogs with severe separation anxiety can harm themselves or their homes and may benefit from pheromone (synthetic hormone) dispensers, drug therapy and the help of a professional trainer.

Your dog may be bored, lonely or simply not getting enough exercise. Puppies and dogs under three years of age need more exercise than older dogs. Some dogs, particularly the herding and sporting breeds, need to be busy to be happy. 

Giving up an animal is never easy for the owner or the pet. If, despite your best efforts, your dog’s difficult behaviour continues, consult a trainer to discuss new strategies. If that doesn’t work, try to find a caring and responsible new home, or surrender your pet to the Ottawa Humane Society. 

Surrender Your Pet

Crate Training

A common challenge people have with their dog is that they will get into trouble when left alone. Being alone may be stressful for your dog and they may act out from the stress.

Confining your dog to a comfortable crate can help prevent these unwanted behaviours. 

A dog shouldn't be left alone in a crate for a long period of time. if you take the time to properly introduce a dog to a crate, they will enjoy having a calm, quiet place to relax.

Your dog’s crate is a tool which should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. Although crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. For this reason it is a good idea to contact your veterinarian for advice.

When you choose a crate, be sure that it is the right size. The crate must be large enough for your dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in his crate after they show an unwanted behaviour. Your dog needs to feel that their crate is a happy, secure place.

Use a wire or fiberglass crate with good ventilation:

  • Some dogs, especially older dogs, prefer wire crates because they can see what’s going on around them and they have better air flow.
  • Some dogs prefer enclosed fiberglass crates that give them a more secure feeling.

For a puppy, use a crate the size they will need as an adult, but block part of it off until they are house trained. If the crate is big enough for the puppy to eliminate in one area and sleep in another they will. To prevent this, block part of the crate when your puppy is left alone for a reasonable period of time. As soon as your puppy is released from their crate, take them outside to a designated area and reward elimination.

Select a command such as “in your house” and encourage them to enter by tossing a treat or toy into the crate. Leave the door open at first and keep it positive by doing things such as meal times in their crate. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes and praise them with a cheerful, positive voice.

Scheduling and creating a consistent routine for your dog is very important. Puppies should not be left in their crates for more than a couple of hours at a time. They cannot be expected to hold their small bowels and bladders for more than a short period of time. Letting them out of their crates often to go outside and learn good bathroom behaviour is important to help them learn how to hold it, and use the eliminate in the right place and time. The older the puppy gets, the longer they can wait and the longer they can stay in their crate.

A crate is not a place to leave your dog and ignore them. It is a tool to help your dog develop structure and learn routine. No dog should be left crated for long periods of time as this can cause mental and physical damage. Keeping your dog well-exercised and mentally stimulated is important for the dog’s mental and physical health.

If you must leave your dog for long periods of time, there are many options for you to keep your dog happy and healthy. Keeping your dog in a small room with their crate’s door open lets them go in and out of the crate to stretch their legs and move around while keeping them safe and secure. You can also call a dog walker or contact a doggy daycare facility to take your dog for a walk and allow them to use the bathroom during the day.

Dogs are social animals and wonderful pets. They are excellent companions for play and exercise, and are sources of affection and comfort. With the lifestyle and schedule of the majority of families, dogs must learn to spend a portion of the day at home while their people are away at school, work, shopping or recreational activities. A common complaint about puppies and dogs is the trouble they get into while they are alone.

Using a crate is an excellent way to:

  • Keep your dog safe and prevent damage when they are alone;
  • Give your dog with a place of their own for security – a comfortable retreat where they can relax, sleep or chew on a favourite toy; and,
  • Support house training.

A crate is not meant to be a place to confine your dog for a long period of time. If you take the time to properly introduce your dog to their crate, your dog will likely prefer the crate as a place for sleeping and having a quiet place to call their own.

Your dog will benefit from learning some independence at night. Although some people are comfortable with their dog sleeping in their bed, there will come a time where the dog may not be able to. Teaching your dog to be able to sleep away from you is a valuable skill. This could help avoid the development of stress and barking if your dog is unable to have direct contact with you.

Put your dog in the crate using your regular command and a treat. Starting off, it may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy.  Puppies often need to go outside to use the bathroom during the night, and you’ll want to be able to hear your puppy when they whine to be let outside. Older dogs should initially be kept nearby so that crating doesn’t become associated with social isolation. Once your dog is sleeping comfortably through the night with the crate near you, you can begin to gradually move the crate to your preferred location.

If not used correctly, a dog can feel trapped and frustrated in a crate. If your dog is crated all day while you’re at work and then crated again all night, they are spending too much time confined in a too-small space.  Other arrangements should be made to accommodate their physical and emotional needs. Puppies under six months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladder and bowels for longer periods.

Whining:

  • If your dog whines or cries while in the crate at night, it may be difficult to decide whether they are whining to be let out of the crate, or whether they need to use the bathroom.
  • If your dog hasn’t been rewarded for whining in the past by being released from their crate, then try to ignore the whining.
  • If your dog is just testing you, they will probably stop whining soon. Yelling at them or pounding on the crate will only make things worse.
  • If the whining continues after you’ve ignored them for several minutes, use the phrase they associate with going outside to eliminate.
  • If they respond and become excited, take them outside. This should be a trip with a purpose, not play time.
  • If you’re convinced that your dog doesn’t need to eliminate, the best response is to ignore them until they stop whining. Don’t give in, otherwise you’ll teach your dog to whine loud and long to get what they want.
  • If you introduce the crate slowly, you’ll be less likely to encounter this problem. If the problem becomes unmanageable, you may need to start the crate training process over again.

Separation Anxiety

As tempting as it may be to crate or confine a dog with separation anxiety, doing so usually makes their panic much worse. It’s highly recommended to try doggie daycare, family, friends and dog sitters instead to help your dog not feel alone while you are away.

A crate may prevent your dog from being destructive, but they may injure themselves in an attempt to escape. Separation anxiety problems can only be resolved with counter-conditioning and desensitization procedures. You will want to consult a professional animal behaviourist for help.

Scheduling and creating a consistent routine for your dog is very important.

  • Small puppies should not be left in their crates for more than a couple of hours at a time. They cannot be expected to hold their small bowels and bladders for more than a short period of time.
  • Letting puppies out of their crates very frequently at first to go outside and learn appropriate elimination behaviours is important to help them learn how to hold it, and eliminate at the appropriate place and time.
  • The older the puppy gets, the longer they can wait and the longer they can stay in their crate.

A rough guide for the length of time a puppy can wait is: age in months + 1 = number of hours (Ex: 3 months = 4 hours).

A crate is not a place to leave your dog and ignore them, but a tool to help your dog develop structure and learn routine in your home. No dog should be left crated for long periods of time routinely as this can create both mental and physical damage. Keeping your dog well exercised and mentally stimulated is important for your dog’s health.

If you must leave your dog for long periods of time often, there are many options available to keep your dog happy and healthy:

  • Keeping your dog confined to a small room with their crate door open enables them to go in and out of their crate, stretch their legs and move around while keeping them safe and secure.
  • Hiring a dog walker to take your dog for a walk.
  • Taking your dog to a doggy daycare.

The first night away from littermates can be very stressful.

  • For the first night put the crate near your bed on the floor.
  • Having the sound and vibration of a ticking clock under a blanket can simulate a heartbeat of littermates and help with settling.
  • Each night after, gradually move the crate further away from your bed to your desired location.

Puppies under the age of 16 weeks probably won’t be able to wait the entire night without using the bathroom. If your puppy suddenly starts to whine or stir once they had settled into their crate, take them outside as they probably needs to go. This will reinforce “asking” to be let out and help with housetraining. Be careful not to be tricked, if your puppy has recently gone out, they likely don't have to go again. Ignore the behaviour to avoid your puppy learning to wake you up for attention.

  • Put your dog in their crate only after they have used the bathroom and been exercised. It’s your responsibility to ensure your dog has the opportunity to relieve themselves when they need to.
  • Take your dog outside often at first. Puppies should go out at least every three hours. Adult dogs, if not housetrained, should go out every five to seven hours.
  • When you first take your dog out of the crate, carry or lead them on a leash to the “toilet area” outside. Praise them for doing their business outside.
  • Don’t let them out when they are barking, you do not want them to associate barking with being let outside.
  • Gradually give your dog more freedom outside the crate, but only when they are ready. If it doesn’t go well at first then start over. When they are out of their crate, always leave the door open so they can go there to rest if they want.
  • Use the crate for “time outs” if your dog gets too exuberant or you begin to lose patience. But ensure that you make the crate a positive experience every time by giving him something to chew on and stay busy. Be neutral when you put your dog in the crate for a time out.
  • Crates are useful when traveling – it’s your dog’s home away from home in your car and at your destination.
  • Never leave a puppy in a crate for longer than they can control themselves or they may eliminate in the crate.
  • If the puppy must be left for long periods during which they might eliminate, they should be confined to a larger area such as a dog-proof room or pen, with paper left down for elimination. As the puppy gets older, their bladder control will increase so they can be left for longer periods of time.
  • Some dogs feel more secure if a blanket is draped over their crate. If you drape something over the crate, ensure there is adequate air circulation and tuck all loose ends under the crate so that the cover does not end up inside the crate, chewed and possibly consumed.
  • Give your dog access to water if they need to be crated for a very long period of time (8+ hours) but secure it so it doesn’t spill. During shorter periods, providing water may contribute to urination in the crate if your dog is in the middle of house training, removing access to water when crated may help reduce accidents.

Adapted from The Humane Society at Lollypop Farm

How to Introduce Your Dog to a Crate

Crate training can take days or weeks, depending on your dog’s age, temperament and past experiences. It’s important to keep two things in mind while crate training:

  • The crate should always be associated with something pleasant.
  • Training should take place in a series of small steps – don’t go too fast.

Ideally, you should try to spend the first few days at home with your new dog. This will enable you to introduce the crate gradually.

Step 1: Introducing Your Dog to Their Crate

  • Put the crate in an area of your house where the family spends a lot of time. An ideal location for the crate is a kitchen or living room during the day and a bedroom at night, rather than an isolated laundry or basement room.
  • Put a soft blanket or towel in the crate.
  • Bring your dog over to the crate and talk in a happy tone of voice.
  • Make sure the crate door is securely open and fastened so it won’t hit and frighten your dog.
  • To encourage your dog to enter the crate, drop some treats near it, then just inside the door, and finally, all the way inside the crate. If they refuse to go all the way in at first, that’s okay – don’t force them.
  • Continue tossing treats into the crate until your dog will walk calmly all the way in to get the food. If they are not interested in treats, try tossing a favourite toy in the crate. This step may take a few minutes or as long as several days.

Step 2: Feed Your Dog in Their Crate

After introducing your dog to the crate, begin feeding regular meals near or inside the crate. This will create a pleasant association with the crate.

  • If your dog is readily entering the crate when you begin Step 2, put the food dish all the way at the back of the crate.
  • If your dog is still reluctant to enter the crate, put the dish as far inside as they will readily go without becoming fearful or anxious.
  • Each time you put the food in the crate, place it a little further back in the crate.

Once your dog is standing comfortably in the crate to eat, close the door while they are eating.

  • At first, open the door as soon as the meal is finished.
  • With each feeding, leave the door closed a few minutes longer, until your dog is staying in the crate for ten minutes or so after eating.
  • If your dog begins to whine to be let out, you may have increased the length of time too quickly. Next time, try leaving him in the crate for a shorter time.
  • If your dog whines or cries in the crate, do not let them out until he stops; otherwise, they will learn that is the way for them to get out of the crate and will keep doing it.

Step 3: Getting Your Dog to Accept Longer Crating Periods

After your dog is eating regular meals in the crate with no sign of fear or anxiety, you can confine them for short time periods while you’re home.

  • Call them over to the crate and give a treat. Give a command to enter such as, “kennel up.”
  • Encourage them by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand.
  • After your dog enters the crate, praise them, give the treat and close the door.
  • Sit quietly near the crate for five to ten minutes and then go into another room for a few minutes.
  • Return, sit quietly again for a short time, then let them out.

Step 4: Leaving Your Dog in Their Crate When You’re Away

After your dog is spending about 30 minutes in the crate without becoming anxious or afraid, you can begin leaving them in the crate for short periods while you are away from home.

  • Put them in the crate using your regular command with a treat. You might also want to leave them in the crate with a few safe toys.
  • You can crate your dog for about 5 to 20 minutes before leaving, but no longer than that.
  • Don’t make your departures emotional and prolonged.
  • Praise your dog briefly, give a treat for entering and then leave quietly.
  • When you return home, don’t reward your dog for excited behaviour by responding to them in an excited, enthusiastic way. Keep arrivals low key.
  • Continue to crate your dog for short periods from time-to-time when you’re home so they don’t associate crating with being left alone.
  • Repeat this process several times a day.
  • With each repetition, gradually increase the length of time you leave and are out of their sight.

Once your dog can stay quietly in their crate for about 30 minutes with you out-of-sight for the majority of the time, you can begin leaving them crated when you’re out-of-sight for short time periods and letting them sleep their crate at night. This may take several days or several weeks, depending on your dog.

Being the Best Owner You Can Be

Your Responsibilities

Get ready for a lifetime of companionship, long walks and occasional dog treats! A dog can be a great addition to your home and family. Follow these pointers and you and your pet will enjoy a lifetime of love and companionship together.

Sterilization prevents unwanted litters and reduces the risk of reproductive cancer, false pregnancies and roaming.

Your dog should wear an identification tag at all times and have an up-to-date microchip.

Keep your dog’s vaccinations up to date. Proper veterinary care will help ensure a longer and healthier life for your dog.

Dogs that don’t get enough exercise tend to be overweight, bored and at greater risk of experiencing health problems. They can also develop behavioural problems. Dogs should be exercised a minimum of twice daily.

Neglect in these areas makes for an unhealthy, unhappy dog and ultimately, a shortened lifespan.

A well-trained dog will not be a nuisance to you, your family or your community.

Excrement left in parks or on sidewalks is not only unsightly, but can transmit disease and parasites.

Grooming allows the skin to breathe and is an important health factor. It also provides an opportunity to detect fleas and other problems that might otherwise go unnoticed.

There are two types of muzzles available on the market:

  • Occlusion: the purpose is to keep the mouth shut.
  • Basket-type: the purpose is to allow the dog to open his mouth and pant.

The occlusion-type muzzle is good for short-term reasons, such as trimming nails or brushing out burrs in fur. The occlusion-type muzzle is NOT meant for long-term wear, as it prevents the dog from panting, which can cause overheating and lead to heat stroke. Do not purchase this type of muzzle to take your dog outside!

The basket-type muzzle can be made of soft nylon, plastic or wire. This muzzle allows dogs to open their mouths and pant. The most secure to prevent biting is a wire basket, as a dog that is determined to bite will destroy the soft or plastic muzzle. It is recommended to purchase a comfortable muzzle for taking your dog outside.

How to measure your dog:

Length – measure your dog from the eyes to the tip of his nose.
Circumference – measure your dog approximately 1″ below his eyes
Note: for circumference measurements only, add:

  • Small dogs add a 1/4″ to 1/2″
  • Large dogs add a 1/2″ to 1″

To find the perfect muzzle, call or visit different pet stores, and take your dog to try one on at the store. There are also many websites that sell muzzles. Finding a muzzle that is a good fit and is comfortable for your dog may take some time, but it is important for your dog’s safety.

To train your dog to wear the muzzle:

  • Attach the muzzle to the dog’s collar and for a few minutes each day, let it hang off their collar for a few days. Reward them for wearing the muzzle on their collar.
  • Next, place a treat or some soft dog food at the end of the muzzle. Fit the muzzle on their snout to try it out for few minutes. This allows them to access the treat and see the muzzle as a positive experience. Praise them for having their snout in the muzzle.
  • Repeat the previous step several times a day for a few days.
  • When they seem comfortable with having their nose inside the muzzle, repeat the process, but fasten the muzzle on their head while they are licking off the treat. Do not forget to praise them!

All dogs are different – some dogs will accept the muzzle more quickly than others. And always make wearing the muzzle a positive experience for your dog.

While a muzzle may help manage some behaviours, nothing replaces good training and responsible pet ownership in ensuring a great canine citizen!

First, fill the tub or sink with warm water before you bring in your dog as some dogs do not react well to the sound of gushing water.

Use our four-towel approach by having one towel on the bottom of the tub to provide traction and to prevent slipping. The second towel is your antishake towel that you drape over your wet dog to prevent them from soaking you and the walls (before rinsing or between washes). The third and fourth towels are for drying your dog.

It’s also a good idea to position some steel wool in the drain to prevent hair clogging.

Brush your dog before their bath, helping the shampoo get deep into the coat and to work out any mats before they get set in by the water.

Prepare your dog’s eyes and ears. Your veterinarian can recommend a good and bland eye ointment that you can apply pre-bath to eliminate doggy tears. For their ears, place a small piece of cotton wool in each of your dog’s ears to prevent water from entering the ear canal (remove these after the bath and don’t put them in too deep).

Lead your dog to the tub, using a leash if necessary, and place them in. Then wet your dog down to the skin. Begin shampooing at the neck and work your way down their body to their tail and toes. Once your dog has been sufficiently shampooed up, drain the tub’s water and then rinse thoroughly with water until all the shampoo has been removed.

Remember that you can reduce shedding by loosening ready-to-shed fur in the tub with a brush. This will also work the shampoo deeper into your dog’s coat and provide a nice massage.

Dogs usually dislike the smell of shampoo. To dogs, mint, pine and citrus just aren’t appealing. To prevent an immediate muddying of your hard work, don’t let your dog outside until they are completely dry.

Cover your dog with your third towel and use your last towel to dry the face, then the ears and then the feet. If you dog doesn’t mind the noise, blow-drying is an option but you must be sure to use the cooler heat setting.

Dog Training

Owning a dog can be a very rewarding experience, and how you train your dog has a big impact on whether your relationship will be one of companionship or frustration. A big mistake people often make when they first bring their dog home is to give them too much freedom. You may think you’re being nice, but in fact, you may be doing more harm than good. 

Starting a training program from the beginning is a fun way to get to know your dog and sets the stage for a successful relationship.

Training is a form of communication between you and your dog. It is up to you to learn how to communicate with your dog. All owners can benefit from training classes, even if they have previously owned a dog or trained many in the past. Every dog is different.

If you don’t train your dog, they will train themselves — and not necessarily in a good way! Your dog will learn from you. By taking an active role in teaching your dog, you will be able to train them the way you want.

  • Practice training in different situations: at the dog park, around noise, children, etc.
  • Exercise your dog! Dogs need the socialization and mental stimulation of lengthy daily walks for their emotional and physical health.
  • Spend your dog’s active time training them appropriately rather than being frustrated when they use that energy to tear up sofa cushions.
  • If your dog is doing something you don’t like, distract them and take the time to teach them something else, such as sitting instead of jumping up to greet.
  • It is ineffective to reward your dog after the fact. Dogs respond to immediate gratification — not delayed rewards.
  • You should never send your dog away to have them trained — your participation is part of the training process, so you need to know what, and how, your dog is learning!

Choose a trainer you are comfortable with. It is a good idea to observe a class beforehand. This will give you a chance to ask the trainer questions and talk to people in the class about their experiences. 

Determine exactly what you want to get out of the class, such as behaviour change or skill development. If you are not sure, discuss this with the trainer so that they can guide you. If you have a good understanding of what you want, the experience will be better for everyone.

If possible, choose a trainer that will come to you and help in the environment that you need help with, such as at home or the dog park. 

Choose a trainer who provides adequate and humane instruction (that is, instruction which does not frighten or inflict pain) on any recommended training equipment to ensure it suits the dog. 

Do not choose a trainer that uses any of the following techniques:

  • Any dog training method or technique that frightens, inflicts pain or is abusive. For example: lifting the dog off the ground with leash/collar and swinging them in a circle, hanging, hitting, kicking, rubbing dogs in feces or urine, prolonged isolation or food, water or shelter deprivation.
  • Any equipment that is used abusively or neglectfully and causes harm to any dog is unacceptable.

Crate training: Provides your dog with her own personal space. It is also used to train the dog to be calm and keep her safe when you are not there. 

House training: All eliminating is done outside or in a specified area. 

Manners training: The dog will wait for you, doesn’t jump up, walks nicely along side of you, and chews on his own things and not yours.

Good citizenship training: Tests dogs in simulated everyday situations to be good citizens including: accepting a friendly stranger, patiently sitting for petting, walking through a crowd and dealing with distractions. 

Command training: An extension of manners training or sometimes for competition. Dog learns the commands heel, sit, down, stay, come, etc.

Conformation training: This type of training is done for dogs that will be shown (beauty pageant of the dog world).

Agility training: The dog learns gymnastics for dogs such as: jumps, teeter totter, tire jump, A-frame, tunnel, weave poles, etc.

Behavioural problem solving: Done to address a specific issue such as separation anxiety, fear, hyperactivity, which often includes some of the types of training mentioned above.

Specialized training: Herding, tracking, field trials, search and rescue, guide dog, disability service, hunting, protection, etc.

Your Dog's Age and Training

Similar to children, dogs understand different things at different stages of their development. Below you will find a brief description of the kinds of things you can expect from your dog as they grow. These are only guidelines. Some dogs progress or mature slower than others. Be prepared to see behaviour change over time.

0 to 4 Months

  • Housetrained and lets you know when they need to go outside
  • Begins to walk on a leash without pulling
  • Sits quietly
  • Sits and stays with limited distractions for a short period of time
  • Greets people calmly and does not jump
  • Chew their toys — not furniture, fingers or shoes
  • React calmly to different people, children, sounds and other dogs
  • Types of training at this stage: crate training, house training, puppy class
  • Games to try at this stage: hide and seek, ball chase and retrieve

Puppies need quiet time. Too much stimulation teaches them that being hyper and nervous is acceptable.

5 Months to 1 Year

  • Consistently walks on a leash without pulling
  • Walks on leash unless you can call him back under all circumstances
  • Sits quietly under most distraction
  • Sits and stays under most distraction
  • Types of training at this stage: continue previous stage training and add manners and obedience — basic and advanced
  • New games to try at this stage: recall games in the house and yard 

Remember that as dogs mature, their independence grows. Puppies are socially dependent on us, so during the first few months, they will often listen better and stay close to home. It is when they mature, especially through adolescence, that their world becomes much larger. So keep them close to you and under control at all times, and continue your training program on a regular basis.

1 Year and Older

  • Dogs become mature adults between two and three years of age
  • Between one year and maturity, your dog should be able to walk on a leash and sit and stay quietly under any distraction
  • They should come when called and, if possible, be allowed off-leash in designated areas
  • They should be totally housetrained, which means no “accidents” in the house and no unwanted chewing
  • If your new dog is older, talk to your veterinarian or consult a dog trainer about training needs. You may have to undo previous training and resolve issues such as separation anxiety.
  • Types of training available at this stage: all types, including agility, tracking and specialized training

Dogs can always learn something new — working with a trainer on a specific behaviour that you want to change can be done at any age.

OHS Training Classes

Group Training

Perfect for friendly dogs of all skill levels! A great chance to get social, learn and have fun with your pup.

Learn More

Private Training

Get the one-on-one care and attention your dog needs. Learn together and help your dog become the best canine citizen ever!

Learn More

Webinars

Tackle common pet challenges with easy-to-access webinars! Learn in no time and find out how you can help your pet. 

Learn More

Puppy Kindergarten

Start your new puppy on the right paw with the first day of school! Your puppy will get to meet other pups and start learning some basic training.

Learn More

This website uses cookies to enhance usability and provide you with a more personal experience. By using this website, you agree to our use of cookies as explained in our Privacy Policy.